Virus!

I still have not gotten sick here in India (except when I drank old milk), which defies all logic.  One would have thought that the kind of "bugs" here would be new to my immune system, and I would spend my first year getting sick all the time.  However, not even one cold or flu.  Even in the US I got sick at least twice per year, so it is a big surprise.

Before coming to India I got all sorts of vaccines and warnings (don't eat street food, don't eat cut vegetables, only drink bottled water, use insect repellent).  I have not followed any of these warnings.  This is my home now, I can't live in a bubble.  I was beginning to think that all the warnings were due to paranoia and hype.

As it turns out there were thousands of malaria cases in Ahmedabad during Aug/Sep.  My coworker's grandfather got malaria (mosquito borne).  My friend here got Chikungunya (insect borne) this week.  A coworker in Indore got typhoid (water borne) in August, and is still suffering with fever and joint/organ pain.  An expat from Denmark in my area got Dengue fever (insect borne) this month.  These are all well-off people, who live in similar neighborhoods/flats as me with similar lifestyles/eating habits.  In fact my eating habits are probably worse as I eat street food with abandon.

I am not sure if I am willing to change my lifestyle, but I may opt to at least get my immunizations up to date next time I visit US.

Not kidding, I just not now got bitten by a mosquito...

Udaipur, Navratri, and other...

ANOTHER festival, Navratri, where I celebrated at coworkers home.  Basically 9 days of dancing with very gaudy traditional costume required.  It was fun to shop for the dress at the outdoor markets, with my indian girl friends driving a hard bargain for me (2500 rupees down to 700).  My coworker's wife and sister-in-law helped me dress and let me borrow jewelry.

Also travelled to Udaipur, Rajastan by bus for a weekend adventure.  Pics of both below.  I do love India, but I can understand from a blog reader's point of view that all these trips and festivals must look the same...

As I was coming home from Navratri celebration last night, my bike stopped working.  It was 3 am, but there were lots of people on the road due to the festivities.  As always, people immediately stopped to help.  I thought I was out of petrol, but my spark plug was malfunctioning.  People here are good at knowing how to fix things with the most basic tools, and I was on my way in no time.  However, even with a bike tuneup being done recently, I have constant trouble with my bike.  It is fun to have such an old bike.  I kind of like taking it to the shop all the time, as it gives me a way to be involved with the real people of india.  However, I am worried for my safely on the road.  I really need a more reliable bike.  But what if I leave this place in 6 months?  Should I really buy a new bike now?

Ganesha Chaturthi

Yet another festival in India.  It only surprises me where there is a day without a festival in India.

I won't get into the religious details or significance, but this was the culmination of a 10 day celebration of the Hindu God Ganesha.  My friends (like many Hindus) made a temporary temple for Ganesha in their home.  On the last day, they perform a ritual in the home (all the neighbors were invited).  Then make the procession (on tractors) to the river with the idol, with ample stops for drumming/dancing/eating sweets/playing with colors (like in Holi), then release Ganesha into the river.

It was loads of fun!  I saw a couple of other westerners there, but I was the only one that came with a group of Indians.  It is better to participate than just observe, especially with such a fun group of friends like I have.

Back to RTO

As you know I got my permanent Indian license for car which was valid for 20 years.  They gave it to me based on my US drivers license (no driving test needed).  They actually weren't supposed to give me 20 year license, it was only supposed to be for the duration of my visa, until Dec 2011.

 

Today I just wanted to take bike test and add bike to the license.  But they realized the 20 year expiry error and took my license away.  Now i start fresh with learner's license only, and even after I take driving test, it will have to get renewed every year.  Sure this is no big deal if I leave in 2012, but if I stay longer...

 

I was better off having the car license for 20 years.  No cop would have noticed that I don't have the bike certification.  But I will have to go back to take the bike test in 1 month, then get a permanent license valid for only one month.  Ugh.

 

I meant to spend only 2 hours at the RTO, then go directly to work.  I ended up having to be there from open to close.  It was raining and I spent the whole day is soaking wet jeans (yes I illegally drove my bike to the RTO).

 

On another note, I met a nice family while spending the whole day at the RTO.  I stopped at their home on the way back for coffee and offerings to Ganesh (Hindu festival going on now).

 

There I met a guy whose job interested me very much.  He works in a call center, but not a legitimate one.  Everyone knows about internet scam schemes, well I met someone involved in this.  This guy's "company" has a website that americans think is a payday loan site.  Americans fill out form for loan, but get rejected, meanwhile their SSN and other personal/financial details have been collected.  Several months later, they get a call from a "debt collecter" saying that they owe money for payday loan, and they get threats of credit score cuts, seizure of assets, etc.  The american thinks that they have been a victim of ID theft.  They usually choose to pay off the small amount ($200-500) rather than take the case to court.

 

I was not surprised by this scheme, but rather surprised that a very kind person was working for such a company.  He has moral issues working at this job, but stays there because no other jobs are available.

 

I don't have a good lesson for this story.  Only to say that no one is 100% good, and sometimes we compromise our morals and justify our actions...

I love you, Nan

My grandmother (Nan) has fallen very ill.  It is very sad for me to be so far away.  Nan was very special to me growing up.  She made me appreciate fresh fruits and vegetables (growing as well as eating), and taught me discipline in doing my schoolwork.  She tried to teach me cooking, canning, and sewing, as she was a master - but I was a hopeless student.  I know I couldn't do anything if I was there with her now, but I would like to be there anyway.  At least to give support to my Mom...

On a lighter note, I have made a travel list with the help of my friends and coworkers.  I refuse to return to US until the list is complete.  I won't be able to see every single thing in each location, but better to see many places in this part of the world while I have the chance.  Once I'm back in US, I can't just hop to Jerusalem for a long weekend...  Here is the list.

India

Goa

Kerala

Jodhpur/Jaipur

Udaipur

Jaisalmer

Asia

Bangkok, Thailand

China

Nepal

Jerusalem, Israel

Cairo, Egypt

Singapore, Malaysia

Said goodbye to another coworker.  This time one of my favorite analytical chemists in my group.  Here are some pictures from the goodbye pizza party.  These are all guys in my group.  It was my first time meeting most of their wives.  It is too bad we had to wait until someone left the group before gathering socially with family.

Mumbai!

My fears were unfounded, as I predicted - I should have gone to Mumbai for the full weekend as planned.  I would have enjoyed it even by myself.

Yes Mumbai is huge and crowded, but it is a modern city.  Compared to Ahmedabad, it is a breeze to manuver as an American, as long as you have enough time to sit in traffic for a bit.  Signs (e.g. auto stand from airport) are well marked in english, and the lower working class seems much more comfortable with english than in Ahmedabad.  Westerners are more prevalent, so I was not stared at.  Mumbai seems lively and interesting.  A good place to live... ????  Only thing I wonder if it is too westernized.  I came to India to experience something completely different.  If I just want a great city, I can return to Philly.

I arrived during Janmashtami (Krishna festival, see pics).  There was a celebration close to the company guesthouse that I was staying.  I walked over and observed.  They make a human pyramid to break a hanging pot.  It is fun for all, despite some people getting hurt falling from failed human pyramids (I saw a nasty broken ankle).

My work function the next day was good too, but no one wants to hear about corporate yadda yadda.

Crowd observing

Another pyramid about to start.  Not much to see here except the awesome stache on the guy in the lower right corner

 Some red liquid poured from the broken pot onto the kid, now we celebrate!

Mumbai?

I am very dissapointed with myself.

I have been looking for an opportunity to get to Mumbai.  Any opportunity.  As I said before, it is a lively world-class city, and may be somewhere that I'd like to live before my stint in India is over (if it has an end anyway).  However, I don't want to consider moving there without visiting first.  Many Indians have warned me against moving there due to traffic/crowds/high cost of living.  However, I know that my preferences and interests often leave my Indian friends a little stumped, so I have decided to make up my own mind.

Lucky me got the opportunity, and an opportunity at no cost to me.  I have a work meeting at our Mumbai site on Tuesday.  With Monday being a holiday, that meant I could spend the long weekend in Mumbai, and flights would be paid for.

Unfortunately I don't really know anyone in Mumbai.  There were a few friends of friends, and one aquaintence, but nothing panned out.  I moved to India by myself, so I shouldn't be afraid to do some sight-seeing by myself.  But it seems that I have just run out of energy.  I am sick of being out of my element, being stared at, and of being unfamilar with my surroundings without the communication skills to figure out what to do.  I am very comfortable now in Ahmedabad.  But when I do NEW things, even here, I like to have someone with me to help.  Even if I was with another confused American it would be ok, that way I have someone to talk to and laugh with.

Not to mention Mumbai monsoon is much worse than Ahmedabad, and I hate rain.

So I will fly into Mumbai Monday night, do my work, then return immediately.  I regret my decision already.  Hopefully I will return soon, with a friend, after monsoon is done.